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Waterproof mascaras and long-lasting lipsticks were game changers when they first debuted on the beauty scene allowing women to ditch the efforts of reapplying. But, the sacrifice we make for innovative worry-free makeup is our health. In order to attain these long-lasting formulas, chemicals are used that can have a BIG impact on our health and that of the environment.
A new study published in the Environmental Science and Technology Letters has shown that nearly half of the makeup tested contained high levels of toxic Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. These man-made chemicals contain 9,000 different compounds that have been linked to weakened immune systems, low birth weights and cancer. With the cosmetic industry valued at an estimated $49.2 billion in the U.S in 2019, this study is a worrying declaration that we need more non toxic makeup. Yet, when nearly half of the makeup on the market is determined to contain toxic chemicals what’s a conscious consumer to do?
Why Are Toxic Chemicals Used In The First Place?
PFAS have been around since the 1940s. They’re not only designated to the makeup industry. They are also used in food packaging, commercial household products like nonstick pans and water-repellent fabrics. When used in cosmetics, they allow makeup formulas to last longer, be water resistant and in some cases even make the skin appear smooth and shimmery. In this study, performed by Norte Dame researchers, common makeup items like liquid foundations, lipsticks and mascaras that were marketed as ‘long-lasting’ or ‘water-proof’ contained the highest levels of PFAS.
The Cosmetic Health Crisis
Part of the appeal of PFAS is that they are persistent, durable and long lasting. But, those same qualities don’t simply allow makeup to last longer. It allows these chemicals to last longer when they’re absorbed by the human body and the environment too. Being water resistant, PFAS do not dissolve in water. Instead, they break down into smaller more toxic chemicals that accumulate over time. In fact they’ve earned the nickname ‘forever chemicals’ because of their ability to essentially last throughout our lifetime.
These results are particularly concerning when you consider the risk of exposure to the consumer combined with the size and scale of a multibillion-dollar industry that provides these products to millions of consumers daily.
Graham Peaslee, Professor of Physics at Notre Dame
What we put onto our body matters. Recent studies have shown that our skin does absorb what we put onto it. Furthermore, most of the 231 cosmetic products tested are items that we apply close to our eyes and lips where the skin is even more susceptible to absorb toxic chemicals. Lipstick can be accidentally ingested and thin mucus membranes close to the eyes also absorb chemicals. With PFAS linked to health effects such as cancer, hormone disruptions and weakened immune systems these ‘forever chemicals’ pose a direct harm to consumers.
The Need For Transparency
One question that the study raised was whether or not brands even knew about the chemicals and toxins present in their formulas. Co-author Tom Bruton, a chemist at the Green Science Policy Institute, told the Guardian, “It’s not clear whether the brands are actually saying ‘Give us PFAS to use in our products or asking for a thickener, for example, or something functional without paying too much attention to what’s in it.” What is clear is that according to a CNN report, 88% of the products tested did not disclose PFAS as an ingredient for consumers to clearly know what’s in their cosmetics and have the opportunity to avoid those toxins.
It’s a little shocking and hopefully a wake-up call for the cosmetics industry in terms of how widespread the PFAS contamination is across types of makeup products.
David Andrews, a senior scientist for the Environmental Working Group (EWG) to CNN
The study has led U.S. Senators Susan Collins (R-ME) and Richard Blumenthal (D-CT) to introduce the No PFAS in Cosmetics Act. Since these ‘forever chemicals’ have the potential to break down into smaller particles and accumulate within our bodies and the environment they pose a threat to our health and water supplies. The bill would help to protect the environment and our health by requiring the FDA to ban PFAS from cosmetic products.
How We As Consumers Can Demand Non Toxic Makeup
While half of the products tested in this study contained these harmful chemicals, the other half did not. This shows that cosmetics can be manufactured successfully without harmful chemicals like PFAS. Taking it a step further, there are already makeup brands that focus on using all-natural, non-chemical ingredients for their foundation formulas, mascaras, lipsticks and other products. Some like 100% Pure focus on using plant-based ingredients (so pure you can eat them) while other brands like Beauty Counter advocate for the Congress to take a stronger stance on banning chemicals from our cosmetic products. Both are an example of what the cosmetic industry can and should be and these are the brands we should support.
Americans should be able to trust that the products they are applying to their hair or skin are safe.
Senator Susan Collins
Another route you can take to invest in non toxic makeup is to check out the EWG’s Skin Deep database. Currently, under the FDA guidelines, brands don’t have to list harmful ingredients like PFAS. Yet, organizations like the EWG offer a database where cosmetics and personal care items are tested for toxins and chemicals and then rated for how safe they are with 1 being the highest rating that a brand can achieve.
As consumers we can also demand to companies, the FDA and our elected officials that we want our cosmetics to be made without toxins and harmful chemicals. There are organizations like Safe Cosmetics who advocate for the removal of toxins from personal care products who you can join and sign their petitions for non toxic makeup. They also offer resources that explain the risks of these ingredients lurking in our cosmetics. Because, we as consumer should know and have the right to be able to refuse toxins in our cosmetics.
