Deux Mains founder Julie Colombino-Billingham shares how her sustainable leather accessories are made ethically in Haiti.
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We all have our go-to accessories– the wallet that manages to flex and hold all the cards, coins, and photos of our loved ones that we stuff it with. The grab-and-go tote. The after-work hours’ drinks purse. And, while it’s always fitting to invest in timeless styles and accessories durable enough to become heirlooms, there’s also something to be said for accessories that are made to make a positive impact too. Those two modes of thought- timeless styles and positive impact – were the building blocks of the sustainable accessories brand Deux Mains. Founder Julie Colombino-Billingham was inspired during a volunteer trip to Haiti in 2010 to honor the artisans impacted by environmental disasters with economic opportunities that utilized their skills. “I don’t need water, I need a job,” was a common sentiment she heard during her time in Haiti. In response, Julie created a solar-powered Port-au-Prince factory where her statement Deux Mains pieces are made.
Speaking with the minds behind the brands that are coming up with these sustainable solutions is the cornerstone of The Wellness Feed. To highlight Deux Mains latest collaboration with Mark ‘Billy’ Billingham, host of the reality TV show, ‘Special Forces: World’s Toughest Test, on a series of ultra-durable accessories, Julie shared with us how she built her sustainable brand to provide a better solution in the fashion industry. As we know, no single solution can do it all. That holds true when it comes to sustainable accessories. Apple ‘leather’ offers a solution for traditional plastic-based vegan leather. Responsible sourcing and ethical production standards offer a solution for traditional leather accessories. And, there’s something to be said for both solutions that offer a slew of sustainable credentials like durability ( to help encourage buying less), upcycled and recycled materials, and ethical production standards.
How can leather be sourced, dyed, and produced sustainably?
Working with genuine leather is one of the first known uses of recycling and a way to ensure no part of an animal is wasted. Historically, leather has been a by-product of the meat industry used to make goods that are durable and repairable, unlike most of its vegan counterparts that use PU as a base. Petroleum.
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Nearly all vegan leathers contain a plastic base called petroleum. Petroleum is extremely toxic to the environment and takes somewhere between 500-1,000 years to biodegrade. By comparison, real leather takes between five and ten years to completely biodegrade. We advocate that working with leather and more specifically tanneries that use responsible production practices is by far the most sustainable way to purchase goods.
What sustainable groups or organizations does Deux Mains partner with?
As part of our commitment to crafting a fair, more planet-friendly fashion industry, we at Deux Mains exclusively work with Gold Rated Tanneries and use responsibly sourced leather. In each of our beautiful handcrafted designs, the leather you see comes from one of three places, each supplier having its own way of ensuring its sustainability metrics.
1) HAITIAN TANNERY
Many of our designs incorporate goat leather, which we purchase from a Haitian tannery that employs more than 100 people. In most places of poverty in the world meat is a scarce part of the diet. However, all leather coming from Haiti is the by-product of animals used in the meat industry. Animals are sacred in Haiti and all parts are valued and used. By supporting this tannery, we are able to support the local economy and boost the supply chain in a country where an estimated 80% of the population is formally unemployed. And, by forming a relationship with this tannery, we can be confident in the quality we receive while knowing that the highest environmental standards are being upheld.
2) MEXICAN TANNERY
The staple leathers that we use on our evergreen collections are sourced from a tannery in Mexico that has been rated as “one of the most sustainable tanneries in the world.” At this tannery, the hides used in the leather tanning process are a by-product of the meat industry — and that prevents them from going to waste in a landfill.
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3) DEADSTOCK LEATHER
Many of the vibrant colors we use in our collections are sourced from deadstock leathers, which are essentially the surplus of the fashion world. When a brand or mill overestimates its needs or decides a material is not right for its collection, the manufacturing overstock otherwise sits unused or is thrown in a landfill. We rescue it from that fate and in turn lower our carbon footprint. While fast-fashion brands may manufacture faux leather alternatives that are cheap and short-lived, using deadstock leather allows us to source the highest quality leather at a much lower cost in a way that is kinder to the planet.
How are Deux Mains products crafted to last a lifetime?
Each product is made with two hands, hence our name Deux Mains. Master craftsmen and women craft each piece with passion and intention and have several quality control points to ensure the piece is made to last. We also source 100% antique brass hardware that is crafted in America by a family-run company to guarantee the wear of our hardware. Of course, things can go wrong and if a Deux Mains design does not stand the test of time, we happily prepare or replace it. The Deux Mains client knows they are buying into a lifestyle and a movement, not into a fashion trend.
Can you shed light on the ethical production standards at your factory in Haiti?
Absolutely – here are some of the practices that make us ethical:
Considerate Working Hours: Our hours of operation are based on what is convenient for those we employ. Standard commuting hours – 9 AM and 5 PM, would require double if not triple commute time for our staff, which would prohibit them from managing extra income sources through outside entrepreneurial endeavors, and spending time with their families. Therefore, our hours of operation are 7 AM – 3:30 PM in an effort to help our staff lessen commute times.
Accommodations/Transport: On a case by case basis, Deux Mains provides local accommodations or a daily shuttle for staff members who live several hours from Port Au Prince, or in dangerous neighborhoods.
True Full Time Employment: We provide full time, consistent employment, not based on volume of orders, rather on a minimum guaranteed 40-hour work week. This means that staff members are never temporary or seasonal, but rather have a guaranteed consistent income that allows them to plan and budget accordingly.
Frequent Payment Schedule: Our payroll is conducted twice per month, to ensure sufficient cash flow for our team. Most companies in Haiti pay a maximum of once per month, which often requires their staff to live off of credit, and never accumulate wealth.
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Labor Code Compliance: At Deux Mains, our staff are guaranteed compliance with the Haitian Labor Code which ensures 13th month bonus, paid maternity leave, paid overtime, paid holidays, sick leave, workman’s compensation, severance, and more.
Additional Benefits: In addition to the requirements of the Haitian Labor Code, DeuxMains also provides paid paternity leave, bereavement leave, and financial gifts for funeral costs in the unfortunate event of the loss of immediate family, comprehensive health insurance with a highly renowned local private insurance company, of which Deux Mains covers 50%, free lunch every day, a paid 15-minute break every morning, access to interest-free pay advances, and more.
Paid Job Training: We provide paid job training for incoming applicants, and guaranteed access to employment from all graduates of our Non Profit Charity Partner, REBUILD globally’s Job Training Program. Currently approximately 40% of our staff are graduates from this program.
Production Bonuses: Beyond our production staff’s daily wage, we provide production bonuses based on monthly productivity and efficiency.
Academic Scholarships:· We provide access to university scholarships through a matching program for staff interested in pursuing higher education.
Why was Haiti chosen as a place to produce your goods?
Deux Mains was created in a time of disaster, yet now thrives in its wake. When a catastrophic earthquake decimated Haiti in 2010, I first deployed as a volunteer responder. I experienced a country at its worst. Witnessing the desperate need for dignified employment in Haiti became the catalyst and greatest inspiration behind the brand. Now, with each collection, we honor the ancestral wisdom, talent, and perseverance I witnessed in the people of Haiti. I couldn’t think of a more perfect place to create a fashion brand with a totally disruptive business model that uses local talent and traditions to bring premium goods with purpose to the global community.
Can you share a story about a student from the Lavi Job Training who went to work at DeuxMains?
Wenson is a bright 24-year-old young man. Before we get to what he’s doing today, let’s rewind by taking a look at his past…back in 2015, when we first met him. Wenson joined our non-Profit Partner, REBUILD Globally’s Education Program as a ninth grader. He was young and shy, but he worked hard and showed promise.
In an interview once he told us, “Education is the greatest gift I could have ever received.” Now fast forward to 2019. Wenson graduated from high school and upon waiting for the next round of the Lavi Job Training Program, enrolled in technical school. What a great thing his initiative proved to be, as the pandemic hit just a few months later, in early 2020. Despite the circumstances, Wenson powered through and finished technical school with a focus on window installation, earning his certificate, just in time to start our 2021 Lavi Program.
In the Fall of 2021, he participated in our 6-month training program at Deux Mains. He successfully completed the program, and we are proud to announce that he is now a full-time employee at Deux Mains, working as one of the lead craftsmen on the handbag team.
What obstacles have you faced producing ethically and sustainably?
From a sustainability perspective, hands down it’s just a more expensive way to source raw materials. There are fewer suppliers that produce this way because it is more expensive to recycle water and use dyes that don’t contain Chromium-6, which is the harmful byproduct of chrome that inferior facilities often use in chrome tanning and so to operate their businesses they must charge a premium. I have never found any obstacle to ensuring ethical practices are at the forefront of our business. Treating your team fairly and making accommodations for the circumstances faced because we are doing business in the developing world just makes good business sense. As the company grew, so did each team member and therefore we have been able to build a beautiful community amid the chaos of current-day Haiti.