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Fashion’s current model uses materials at an unsustainable rate. As brands invest in recycling solutions, that means classics like a Chanel purse could be made with recycled materials.
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Fashion is facing a scarcity problem. At the industry’s current production rate, some of our most beloved resources- cotton, metals, and water are estimated to become limited-edition within the next decade. And, not in a way we want. So, what’s a luxury label that has more than 300 boutiques worldwide, six major fashion collections yearly, and sells billions of dollars worth of goods yearly to do? The answer is simple. Invest in sustainable solutions like recycling.
Early this summer, the French luxury house, Chanel, announced it’s launching a circular venture focused on waste management and recycling. Dubbed Nevold, the B2B platform will be a ‘circular materials hub’ for luxury brands. This move shows that brands must be forward-thinking about environmental issues in order to ensure longevity.
As consumers, activists, and brands look to circular economy models, where materials are reused instead of thrown away, another question remains. Will it be enough to mitigate the threat of scarcity when it comes to our most vital resources? And what other ways can luxury fashion brands preserve our resources for future generations?
Chanel’s Environmental Goals
The godmother of Chanel, Gabrielle Chanel, once said, “I want to be a part of what is to come.” Today, as industries move towards sustainability and environmentalism, the brand is taking those words to heart. Over the last decade Chanel has advanced their environmental commitments through investments, restoration projects, and social justice. Here’s a quick glance at recent initiatives:
- Partnerships with organizations to support and source from regenerative farms for their perfumes
- Ensuring that 87% of their gold is recycled
- Helped launch the Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetics (TRASCE)
- Has an ongoing partnership with the Fair Wage Network and the Union for Ethical Biotrade
Per the brand’s recent Sustainability Performance Report, there are clear targets to reduce CO2 emissions, use more renewable energy, and promote regenerative farming practices. They aim to cut down on waste by recycling materials and to lower their carbon emissions. Technology plays a broad role in helping the brand to meet these goals from new recycling machines to eco-friendly dyes.
Nevold, short for “never old”, fits into these initiatives as a platform set to reinforce circular strategies such as using recycled threads in the tweed jackets or recycled plastic in the iconic Chanel purse. Initially, the platform was focused on tackling another environmental problem within the fashion industry- waste. But, it has since expanded to recycling materials.
Many luxury labels are now investing in these new ideas. Chanel is no different—using tech to recycle both textiles and leather. And while this will help reduce environmental damage, some environmentalists question its broader impact when an industry continues to overproduce.
Materials Scarcity
Take. Make. Waste. The fashion industry is no different from other industries in its linear production model. However, thanks to the recent advent of fast fashion brands, this model has been accelerated to an unsustainable pace. We take, make, and waste more than any other generation before us. By some estimates, our fashion consumption habits have risen by 400% in the last 20 years. This unsustainable rate is putting a strain on our natural resources leading to projections of scarcity within the next five years. A report from the BCG, Quantis and Textile Exchange shows a possible shortage of raw materials of 133 million tons by 2030.
Already, there has been an upward tick in the depletion of raw materials. Cotton, a notoriously thirsty crop, has been linked to the disappearance of the Aral Sea and depletion of Lake Urmia. By depleting one of its necessary resources to grow —water —cotton crops have become depleted themselves and risen in price. Elsewhere in the world, climate change is rising temperatures to unlivable degrees for caterpillars who spin silk and diminishing water resources for goats raised for cashmere.
The dire warnings about climate change need to be taken seriously by the fashion industry. Jennifer Francis, acting deputy director of the Woodwell Climate Resource Centre, said in an interview, “It’s most likely that the crops that are used for fabrics will become even more expensive or just not available.”
For Chanel, a brand for whom natural materials- cashmere, silk, leather, cotton, and wool- represent 80% of their materials volume, loss of these resources is a dire risk. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel and Chanel SAS, said in an interview, “Nevold is how we explore long-term alternatives — not for next season, but for the next generation.”
The New Recycling Platform: How It Works
The core idea behind Chanel’s recycling platform is to turn waste into useful raw materials. The platform is designed to handle different kinds of waste, from scraps of tweed fabric to old leather from a Chanel purse. It uses advanced machinery and data systems to sort, process, and prepare materials for reuse. Think of it as a recycling hub that keeps Chanel’s waste on a loop. This platform targets a range of materials, including:
- Used textiles and fabrics
- Old leather products
- Plastic packaging waste
The process begins with collection—either from Chanel stores or suppliers. Waste is then sorted by type. Once sorted, it goes through cleaning and processing steps to become raw material again. These recycled materials are then ready to be used in new collections, closing the loop in production.
Chanel partnered with recycling tech firms that specialize in breaking down and transforming materials and environmental groups to ensure their process is sustainable. This platform could significantly cut down waste. Instead of throwing away tons of scraps, Chanel reuses them, reducing landfill waste. Recycling textiles and leather also cuts emissions and conserves resources like water and energy. Over time, Chanel’s effort could save thousands of tons of waste from ending up in landfills.
Chanel’s move could inspire others. If top luxury brands adopt similar technology, the entire fashion industry could shift toward circular models. Scaling this platform might also open doors for new innovations in eco-fashion, pushing the industry towards more circular initiatives.
Is Recycling Enough?
Chanel’s new recycling platform marks a major indicator that the fashion industry is viewing climate change as a serious threat. In 2015, Kering, the French luxury conglomerate whose brands include Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, acknowledged the threat of climate change. “A lot has changed from five years ago when we were just becoming aware of the potential risks,” said Helen Crowley, head of sustainable sourcing and nature initiatives at Kering.“The sector is now looking for climate solutions.” Now, brands and experts are acting on these risks to adopt sustainable production models to ensure future resilience.
Yet, when it comes to recycling, is it enough? By turning waste into new materials, fashion brands like Chanel have a better standing against climate change and its looming depletion of our natural resources. And, it has the potential to divert millions of tons of textiles from landfills. But as it stands, it’s mostly just that- potential. Reports, including those from the British Fashion Council, show that many brands are still operating on a ‘business as usual’ model with recycled or circular collections reserved to one-off collections. Even Chanel has acknowledged this over grossed optimism. “It’s not about saying 50 [per cent] of our materials will be recycled tomorrow,” Pavlovsky said in a recent interview.
It’s not surprising that it’s the founders of sustainable fashion brands who are often the first to stress the need for drastic action within the industry. Safia Minney, Founder of the Fair Trade apparel company, People Tree, stated in a recent interview, “We don’t have time. We have to reduce production and consumption of fashion by between 75% and 95%. We’re not talking about snipping a bit off.”
Projections from scientists about the state of the world in the next several years mimic this sentiment. When it comes to climate change, emissions, water, and crop resources, etc., reports show that we need collaborative drastic changes from industries. Projects like Nevold are a good step in the right direction. But, the reality is that we need 50% of the materials used in a Chanel purse to be sourced from recycled materials, today. The only way to prevent fashion’s scarcity problem is to commit to innovations today with a drastic step forward. And, that begins now.