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From the past to the future, and even where to buy, here is everything you want to know about an old mine cut diamond.
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I first learned about an old mine cut diamond over the summer. I needed a ring- a starburst cluster of diamonds set in platinum- I inherited from my great-grandmother to be resized. As the jeweler examined my ring, he told me it was an old mine cut. That explained why, although beautiful, it didn’t have that same intense sparkle I notice from the modern diamond rings littering my Instagram feed. My old mine cut diamond ring, 100-years old, has a softer warmer sparkle than the bright bling of today’s cuts. Staring at my newly sized ring on my finger, I now know that its age and warm glow are a few of the charming characteristics of these vintage stones.
Over the last few weeks, the internet has been ablaze with news about Taylor Swift’s engagement and her old mine cut diamond ring. Much like the musician herself, her ring has a unique charm and a touch of old-world romance found in vintage pieces. Shopping for vintage and pre-loved items is one way to reshape overconsumption and the take-make-waste model. And, given that the internet is abuzz with this news, now seems like the perfect time to examine and learn more about these stunning vintage jewels.
A Glimpse Into The Diamond Cutting History
The way I see it, the tools, systems, and technology we have today make us pretty lucky. Even typing this paragraph right now, I know that had this been my great-grandmother, she would be typing via pen and paper and a typewriter… with no backspace button. The same can be said for the diamond industry-technology has played a pivotal role in reshaping how things are done.
Centuries ago, diamond cutters worked with basic tools, relying on their eyes and hands to shape rough diamonds. Without lasers or advanced tech, early cuts were simple, following the stone’s natural shape. Take for instance, early cuts like the Point Cut, first seen in the 1300s, that was simply polishing the diamond’s natural octahedron shape. By the 1600s, tools got a little better and cutters, wanting to show off the diamond’s beauty, began to try more complex shapes, notably the Rose Cut, with 24 facets. In the 1800s, the bruting and steam-bruting machines (motorized saws) ushered in a new wave of cuts- Old Mine Cushion Cuts- that have a brilliant 58 facets. Today, it’s these limitations that create the distinct character we love in older diamonds.
Building on the technique of old mine cuts, modern cuts, thanks to the inclusion of lasers and other technology, aim for sharp, intense sparkle, like a bright flash of light. By contrast, old mine cuts offer a softer, warmer glow, almost like candlelight. In my opinion (and clearly some women’s fiancés), their shape and the way they’re cut give them a unique personality, making them feel more personal and romantic than the crisp lines of today’s diamonds.
The Anatomy Of An Old Mine Cut Diamond
So, what else makes an old mine cut diamond stand out? For one, while technology allows for uniformity, no two old mine cut diamonds are exactly alike. Their facets might be arranged a little differently, and their depth can vary a lot. This gives each stone its very own special look, unlike the perfect symmetry of modern diamonds.
It’s also worth noting that these diamonds are cut with fewer facets than modern ones, and they’re often larger. This faceting pattern makes them sparkle differently. Instead of the intense, bright flash of modern cuts, old mine cuts show off a beautiful “fire”—those rainbow colors I see every time I look down at my great-grandmother’s ring. They have a deep, inner glow that shifts with movement. Another key feature is the noticeable culet, or the flat point at the bottom of the diamond. This larger culet helps the light bounce around inside, adding to its unique charm.
Why Should I Choose An Old Mine Cut Diamond?
What I love most about my old mine-cut diamond ring is the connection to my loved one who is no longer with me. For someone buying a ring, it might feel more like choosing a piece of history to wear. Regardless of whether or not it has a link to your family tree, these diamonds whisper stories from centuries past. They carry the romance of bygone eras, making them perfect for someone who loves unique, sentimental items. (Yes, I’m a romantic) And, their one-of-a-kind nature appeals to those wanting a ring that stands out and feels deeply personal.
There’s also the sustainable aspect. Every Old Mine Cut diamond has a past. It was once worn by someone else, perhaps even passed down through generations. This pre-loved aspect makes them a conscious choice to bypass shiny new things that add to the take-make-waste model. Instead, you’re practicing that eco ethos of giving an existing item a new life. Now, I know diamonds aren’t items that frequently end up in landfills. But, choosing an antique diamond does help avoid supporting new mining efforts. If I can’t buy from a reputable jeweler that verifies that their partner mines meet high ethical and environmental standards, then I find ethical peace in picking a stone that already exists.
Finding and Caring For Your Vintage Diamonds
Ready to find your sparkling piece of history? Here are several shopping tips to help you get started:
- Look for reputable antique jewelry dealers either online or in your home town. Specialized vintage diamond retailers are another great option.
- Online marketplaces can be a good source too, but it’s always best to stick to sellers with solid reputations and clear return policies.
- Ask for certification. If an antique stone does not have one, that’s okay. Ask for an appraisal from a gemologist specializing in antique diamonds.
- Check diamonds for distinct features like a squarish shape with rounded corners, larger facets, and a visible culet.
When it comes to cleaning, old mine cut diamonds are durable, but they need gentle care. Follow these tips to ensure their sparkle for another 100 years:
- Clean with mild soap and warm water, using a soft brush.
- Avoid harsh chemicals that could harm the metal setting.
- Because their settings are often quite old, it’s smart to pick a protective setting.
- Every few years, have your vintage piece professionally cleaned and checked by a jeweler who knows antique jewelry well. They’ll ensure its beauty and integrity for the long haul.
