At NYC Jewelry Week, designers show how ethical jewelry can benefit miners in the Amazon and responsibly protect our forests.
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A beautiful piece of jewelry will always put a smile on a woman’s face. At New York City’s Jewelry Week, taking place from November 18th to the 24th, designers and industry experts are coming together to share their solutions to ensure that jewelry is putting a smile on the face of not only the woman receiving a precious necklace or ring, but also the most vulnerable group of people in the supply chain- the miners. For too long the industry has had a host of negative impacts on miners who are often left out of the conversation. At an intimate jewelry showcase hosted by Reciprocity Jewels, designers and leaders in the industry shed a light on how they work directly with miners to offer economic stability and protection for both the miners and the sacred Amazon forests where some of the world’s most valuable gold and gems come from.
What’s The Future Of Sustainable Jewelry? Insights From Industry Leaders
“I thought there has to be a way to do mining in the Amazon region of Peru in a more sustainable way,” Andrea Jose, an award-winning Peruvian designer and Co-Founder of Reciprocity Jewels explains how she began finding opportunities for Peruvian miners and jewelry designers to buy and sell responsibly-mined gold. At the time of starting Reciprocity Jewels in 2022, Andrea was shocked to see the lack of regulation in the mining industry. “There was this enormous problem of illegal mining in Peru. And, people were affected with a host of problems- mercury poisoning, human trafficking, and mafias.” Collaborating with NGOs such as Pure Earth in 2019, Andrea began to personally work with miners to implement cleaner gold mining technologies to protect the miners from mercury poisoning and the forests from deforestation and bring her ideas about sustainability to life.
At the Reciprocity Jewels showcase about responsibly mined gold, the names of the gold and gem miners were on display with their names next the names of the designers. This radical form of transparency ushers in an era of miners being acknowledged in an industry that often overlooks them. And it sparks the conversations necessary to ensure that all people are benefitting – from the miner to the jewelry wearer. “The miners are doing an amazing job in the Amazon and we’re incorporating their gold into our collections, telling what they do as well. For them it’s an opportunity to grow their business,” Andrea says.
Traceability in Gem Sourcing
Jewelry designer Susan Wheeler’s necklaces on display next to the names of the miners and cutters for the gold and gems.
It’s no secret that the jewelry industry is undergoing profound transformations, in part, driven largely by consumers’ growing awareness and demand for ethical practices. As the traditional ways of sourcing gemstones are being scrutinized, the concept of traceability has surfaced as a cornerstone of ethical gem sourcing, promising greater transparency, accountability, and ultimately, a brighter future for both the industry and its consumers.
Traceability refers to the ability to track the origin and journey of a gemstone, from mine to market. It involves documenting every step along the supply chain to ensure that the stones were obtained ethically. While the industry hasn’t always operated this way, according to Andrea, it’s 100% possible within the industry. “We have the name of every miner mining the gold. Every year, the due diligence is done on the ground. We partner with mining concessions. We have conversations with miners. Every designer meets the miners who mine their gold.” This process not only helps combat illegal mining but also reinforces the integrity of the jewelry’s story. Increasingly, technology is playing a pivotal role in enhancing traceability within the jewelry industry and sharing the stories of miners.
Industry Collaborations and Initiatives
To further the movement toward traceability and ethical sourcing, various organizations and alliances have emerged within the industry:
- Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC): This organization promotes responsible ethical, social, and environmental practices throughout the jewelry supply chain. RJC’s Code of Practices provides guidelines that members can adopt to ensure compliance with sustainability goals.
- The Kimberley Process: Established to prevent the trade of conflict diamonds, this initiative continues to evolve to address new challenges within the industry. While it has limitations, it has laid the groundwork for accountability and traceability.
- Fair Gold Mines: Jewelry brands are forming partnerships with non-governmental organizations to aid in the implementation of local community development projects that ensure ethical mining practices.
As the jewelry industry prepares for 2025, traceability is set to be a defining characteristic of ethical gem sourcing. By leveraging technology, fostering industry collaborations, and prioritizing consumer trust, the sector is moving towards a more transparent and sustainable future. In this evolving landscape, the demand for responsibly sourced gemstones will not only redefine the way we perceive luxury but also pave the way for a more conscious consumer culture. As we embrace the future, one thing is clear: traceability will not just be an option but a necessity in the journey toward ethical jewelry.
“The mining community we work with is a family- the mother, the father, the daughter, and the son- they’re all a part of the process. And everything will benefit them,” Andrea explains. “That’s why is called Reciprocity. Today for you. Tomorrow for me.”