The folks behind the luxury certification The Butterfly Mark and women’s and men’s jewelry brand Pyrrha share what makes luxury ethical.
Wade and Danielle Papin
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In writing for the Wellness Feed over the years, I have spent a good bit of time delving into a variety of certification processes. In a sustainable lifestyle, we often find ourselves in fairly unregulated spaces. Yes, there are basic and essential regulations about labor practices, but many sustainable and ethical considerations companies take are completely optional.
Certification bodies make it clear to brands what they should focus on to comply with a more robust understanding of sustainable and ethical production. They also provide signals to consumers so that they can truly know where, how, and by whom their products were made.
In the past, I’ve broken down various certification processes. I’ve also discussed certification with a wide variety of brands, from everyday goods to luxury items.
As a consumer, I’ve had to battle the idea that a higher price point automatically entails greater quality or certain best practices being met. But I myself have hardly ever bought true luxury goods. That world has always carried a level of mystique for me that I’ve found hard to delve into.
That’s why I’m particularly pleased to have spoken with the folks behind the Butterfly Mark Certification Programme, which is a certification body specific to luxury goods. I also had the opportunity to speak with a jewelry brand, Pyrrha, which recently went through the Butterfly Mark Certification Programme. In speaking with both the certification body itself and the brand, I’ve started to demystify sustainable and ethical luxury–and its best practices–for myself and in sharing these conversations I hope to do the same for you.
MW: What sorts of gaps in certification and the luxury industry were you hoping to fill with the Butterfly Mark Certification Programme?
Positive Luxury (PL): Positive Luxury was born in 2011 to action real change, for a world that desperately needs it. The Butterfly Mark certification was inspired by the large blue butterfly – a species which now thrives in the UK following near-extinction. It is a story of success made possible by experts really understanding the unique, key driving factors within a larger ecosystem. Together with some difficult work and collaboration, this is the genesis for the Butterfly Mark: each luxury category ecosystem is different, and we understand it better than anyone.
Our Butterfly Methodology is a collection of tools and services that can be configured to each luxury company’s bespoke challenges and needs. Rather than just fill gaps in certifications, we wanted to transform luxury for the good of all. We believe the luxury industry should have higher standards and – because by its nature it is creative, innovative and inspirational – that where it leads others will aspire to follow. By helping luxury reach higher and higher standards, through redefining business models and rebuilding consumer trust, Positive Luxury and the Butterfly Mark can have an even wider positive impact. That’s why we do what we do.
Positive Luxury’s Butterfly Mark Sustainability Reporting
MW: Can you share how brands come to work with Positive Luxury? Are there standards they must meet or steps they should have already taken in order to start working toward the Butterfly Mark Certification?
PL: We work with a wide range of brands – from small boutique businesses to large global houses. What they all share is a desire for real change – to take sustained action to become what we call Real Changemakers, be part of a new kind of ‘positive luxury’ that upholds traditional values such as quality, creativity and craftsmanship, coupled with an authentic care for people and nature. We are honoured and welcome the opportunity to work with luxury brands who are committed to this ethos.
Brands simply need to be willing to get started – so we work with businesses at every stage of their sustainability journey. We can bring expertise and support where companies are challenged for resource, and likewise we can provide tools and best practice for those with mature strategies and sustainability teams. It doesn’t matter where you are on your journey – the key is to get started. Our wide range of services are more accessible than ever, so there is no financial barrier to getting started, and give all the support necessary to achieve the Butterfly Mark Certification.
Pyrrha is a B Corp, a recognized member of the Responsible Jewelry Council (certification number 0000 4572), a Living Wage employer, 1% for the Planet, and Butterfly Mark certified by Positive Luxury.+
MW: What are some of the key areas of concern that you focus on with luxury jewelry brands?
PL: Our Butterfly assessment is not a one-size fits all, we tailor our assessment to delve deeper into the most important topics for each brand and make sure no important details are left out. Across 23 drivers we account for a brand’s impact in a multitude of areas, using double materiality to identify priorities.
For jewellery brands some of the key areas include biodiversity (Environment), Human Rights, Modern Slavery and People Management (Social) as well as how responsibly they manage their businesses – Sustainable Procurement, Health, Safety and Wellbeing (Governance). We also consider innovation within each business. And of course, our assessment is built upon global goals, international standard and reporting frameworks, and existing and upcoming legislation.
MW: When a consumer sees that a jewelry brand is a certified member of Positive Luxury, what do you hope that signals to them?
PL: The Butterfly Mark is the mark of real change and is only awarded to brands meeting higher and higher standards for people and nature. If consumers see a brand bearing the Butterfly Mark, they can be confident the brand is can be trusted regarding not only its sustainability commitment but also its actions. By choosing the Butterfly Mark, a consumer is showing the world what real change looks like.
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And now for my conversation with Pyrrha.
MW: What was the impetus for working with Positive Luxury toward certification? Was there a reason that you decided to choose this particular certification?
Pyrrha: We choose to certify with Positive Luxury because of their high bar of standards that coincide with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, their luxury brand specialization, and their excellent reputation. We wanted to certify with an organization that is trusted globally, and being Butterfly Mark certified allows our community to recognize the trusted stamp of approval.
We also think it’s important to be certified in more than one area of our business – we certified as a B Corp in 2014, and from there we wanted to be certified within our niches. So, just like we have a jewellery-specified certification, Responsible Jewellery Council, we wanted a luxury-specific certification, and that’s where Positive Luxury came in. It also helps us set ourselves apart as a responsible fine jewellery brand: one that lives in the same space as many luxury jewellery brands people know today.
Pyrrha Crescent Moon 14K Gold Symbol Thread Through Earring $650
MW: What are some of the areas for concern that you see in the luxury jewellery industry that you’ve addressed in your own business since working with Positive Luxury?
P: Many so-called luxury brands are not using recyclable metals and/or are using cheap base metals that are gold or silver plated. We use 100% recycled metals so that we don’t have to mine for our materials which is harmful to the environment. Using recycled metals also keeps those metals from filling up landfills.
We do not use any plating in our product line because of the damage it does to the environment and because of the non-permanent nature of jewellery made this way. In general, fashion jewellery sold in mass quantities with the illusion of being luxury jewellery is a big problem because the consumer is being misled. All of our jewellery is hand crafted at our zero-carbon studio in Vancouver, BC, Canada. By only making what’s needed, and we avoid making mass amounts of jewellery that would end up on sale and de-valued.
14K Gold on Silver Signature Talisman $2,500 to $3,700
MW: What was the process of getting certified like?
P: Attaining the Butterfly Mark was a rigorous process that took around a year. It was extremely in depth, with 5 different submission stages. Our baseline submission was on April 21, 2022, and we achieved the Butterfly Mark on January 24th of 2023. It took a lot of time and resources, but it was an extremely satisfying process because we know that it’s worthwhile.
MW: What other sustainable or ethical goals do you have looking forward to the next year?
P: Next year, we will put even more effort into encouraging consumers to be conscious about their shopping habits and to look closely at who they are supporting when they spend their money. We will highlight consumer impact and educate them on the importance of supporting brands with 3rd party certifications and make sure they understand how those certifications legitimatize sustainability claims.