We chatted with the founder of the La-based brand Whimsy + Row about what it takes to be a good brand.
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Whether they’re finding new factories to work with, making bandannas out of scrap fabric, or selling face masks, LA-based sustainable fashion brand Whimsy + Row is always adapting. I had the pleasure of speaking with Rachel Temko, founder of Whimsy + Row. We talked about the evolution of her brand, her dedication to eco-consciousness, and the challenges that fashion brands face post-COVID.
Once Upon A Vintage Shop…
In 2014, Rachel Temko founded Whimsy + Row, the product of her experience in the fashion industry and her interest in sustainability. It started as a vintage brand selling pieces that Temko curated right at the moment when vintage and thrift shop culture was starting to catch on. Back then, my friends and I were taking pilgrimages to vintage and consignment stores in the suburbs of Philly in search of jackets and tees that would project an air of cool individuality. But for Temko, “vintage” provided a way to participate in fashion without having to conform to the fast fashion production that dominates the industry.
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As eco-conscious production gained more popularity, Whimsy + Row started to incorporate newer sustainable pieces. Although customers gravitated toward these contemporary garments, Temko found that there just weren’t enough to fill a whole store. So as an experiment, she and her best friend set out to design their own line of clothing, a mini capsule collection made completely out of deadstock fabrics – the discarded leftover fabric from other garments. When the line sold out in a matter of months, original garments made from upcycled fabric became Whimsy + Row’s specialty. Just like their vintage work, Whimsy + Row used deadstock to breathe new life into old garments.
What Are The Cleanest Materials Of Them All?
Today, Whimsy + Row produces breezy dresses, striking jumpsuits, and other easy garments for the modern, sustainable woman. They also sell accessories and a selection of home goods, promoting eco-consciousness as a lifestyle, not just an individual purchase. They’ve grown significantly since their first line and with this growth, their materials and production methods have changed. Imagine trying to find enough of the same leftover fabric to make more than ten or fifteen identical dresses and you’ll understand why. Over time, Whimsy + Row branched out into materials like organic cottons and linens, as well as TENCELTM–a popular sustainable fiber that comes from raw and material wood. But don’t worry, Whimsy + Row still uses deadstock fabrics and even uses their own scraps to create tops and bandannas in a closed-loop production method. And whatever they can’t use, they send to Marimole, a fabric recycling center based in New York City. Even with different production styles, all of Whimsy + Row’s packaging materials are still sourced sustainably.
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Spot one of Whimsy + Row’s dresses or jumpsuits on the street, and you probably wouldn’t guess that it’s made from sustainable materials like organic cotton, upcycled rayon, or TENCELTM. Yet, ultimately, Temko wants her customers to know exactly what they’re wearing. As she told me, “When I started, nobody told you their process and how things were made and where they were made and the consumer didn’t know what was going into it.” That’s why you can go to Whimsy + Row’s online store and see what materials were used to make each garment, accompanied by an explanation of the material’s environmental impact through an ethics-based marketing tool called GreenStory.
How Green Is Your Dress?
Let’s take a closer look at GreenStory. When you click on the Lola Wrap Dress (pictured below), you can see that it’s made of 100% upcycled rayon and according to the GreenStory feature, purchasing it saves 17.3 days of drinking water. As Temko explained to me, GreenStory’s calculations for saving water are based on factors like the strict regulations for dying fabrics in Los Angeles, the usage of recycled water, and the reduction of water usage altogether. GreenStory also highlights other environmental impact factors like gas emissions and electricity and landfill usage. This feature is an interactive way to better understand the business practices you’re supporting when you buy a particular garment.
L.A Confidential, The Hunt For Ethical Factories
Temko and I also spoke about one of the biggest problem areas for fashion brands: factories. From finding the right fit to ensuring ethical and sustainable practices, a factory can be a giant roadblock for any growing brand. Back in 2018, Temko discussed this issue on the Conscious Chatter podcast with host Kestrel Jenkins. At the time, Whimsy + Row was in between factories and was accustomed to switching factories in between seasons. Following up on that interview, Temko told me that Whimsy + Row is still searching for its perfect set-up. Currently, different items like knits or more complicated designs are produced in different factories that specialize in those types of garments. These factories are all based in Los Angeles, which allows Temko and her team to visit them regularly.
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Temko has a clear set of standards she uses to evaluate potential new factories and current factories that Whimsy + Row uses. As she succinctly explained, “We go to the factories to see that [workers are] paid fairly, it’s a clean and safe environment, and that we can work together. You really don’t know until you start working together how they’re going to perform.” Using these guiding principles, Temko and her team conduct regular audits of their factories. Temko also mentioned that she’s working on getting outside validation of these standards. “We’re working our way to get all of our certifications,” she told us. “We know we’re eco. We’re going downtown to see all of our vendors. But we want to make sure that our customers understand that as well.”
Coming Together During The Pandemic
“When COVID hit, we pretty much stopped most of our production and just started making masks,” Temko spoke about how to found a way to overcome the roadblock for all fashion brands this year, the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. “We lost two months of production time so that was really hard. The factories had to shut down for at least a month. Facing this challenge, Temko and the Whimsy + Row team doubled down on their humanistic approach to fashion. Knowing full good quarantine restrictions could have long-term effects, she worked hard to ensure the financial stability of her factories and employees, offering continued work as soon as possible. With this intention in mind, Whimsy + Row began producing two essentials for the quarantine lifestyle: face masks and a loungewear line.
“I’ve always been the kind of person who believes that you’ve just gotta go with the flow and figure it out. I was concerned about our factory workers because this is their lively hood. So, I reached out we offered more payment while they weren’t working.“
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When I asked Temko what her strategy is for overcoming a roadblock, she responded, “I really rely on my team. I am constantly asking them how can we improve and we really work together as a team to fix these things.” She also mentioned collaborating with other designers and business owners to figure out how together all brands can address the problems they face as a sustainable and ethical business. Helping others will only help spread the message of sustainable living that drives Whimsy + Row to a wider audience. Beyond collaboration and devotion to ethical practices, the other key to building a sustainable fashion brand is flexibility. In Temko’s eyes, this was the make-it-or-break-it factor for businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic. Fashion is always changing. Yet, perhaps with the right team, dedication to a vision, and the willingness to go with the flow, change can bring about the next great thing.
So what exactly is the next great thing for Whimsy + Row? Down the line, they’ll be getting a B-corp certification, growing their lifestyle brand, and eventually dipping their toe into fabric innovation. Or, as Temko aptly summarized, “growing and being a good company.”