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Leather is a notorious fabric in the world of sustainable fashion. Conventional leather has a history of being made unsustainably and unethically. And many alternative leathers are made out of innovative, but confusing materials, that leaves consumers to wonder just what goes into their alternative leather goods. In a sea of leather, pineapple leather stands out. Everybody’s talking about it. But what makes it so special? Is it different from other alternative leathers? What do we know about it and what do we want to know about it? Read on for everything I’ve found out about this truly unique leather alternative.
What is Pineapple Leather?
Pineapple leather, or Piñatex, is an alternative leather made primarily from the cellulose fibers of pineapples. The idea for pineapple leather originated as part of Dr. Carmen Hijosa’s PhD from the Royal College of Art in London. Back then, she was inspired by traditional Filipino garments made of pineapple fibers.
Today, pineapple leather is used in a wide range of applications, from shoes to handbags and belts. Pineapple leather has the ability to perform as well as conventional leather in just as many applications, but without the same baggage.
And in all of its applications, pineapple leather is made by one company–Ananas Anam (deriving from the Spanish word for pineapple). They’ve innovated the process of creating alternative leathers by focusing on a cellulose-rich byproduct of harvesting that would otherwise be waste–the pineapple leaves.
As with many other alternative leathers, pineapple leather consists not only of natural cellulose, but additional materials, namely PLA (polyactic acid) and resin. PLA is commonly called bioplastic and it’s a material found in several leather alternatives (like apple leather), as well as in more environmentally conscious sunglasses. And pineapple leather is also coated with polyurethane (PU), another bioplastic.
Sustainable and ethical features
On the whole, pineapple leather is a much more sustainable alternative to traditional leather. As mentioned above, Piñatex is made from would-be-waste, meaning that pineapple leather not only offers a product to consumers, but a solution to an environmental issue.
Once harvested, the pineapple fibers used in Piñatex are washed, then dried naturally. After that, the fibers are turned into a non-woven mesh, which is the base for every other Piñatex product.
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At the heart of Piñatex’s production is a dedication to the idea of circularity, or closed-loop production. This is a style of production that involves putting some amount of output back into production, eliminating the need for more raw resources. For Ananas Anam, the closed-loop method involves putting their waste back into their production line, in addition to the fact that they’re eliminating a waste-stream by using pineapple leaves.
Along the way, Ananas Anam strives to uphold its own high ethical and sustainable standards. They work with local farmers and provide them a steady, fair wage that they might not otherwise have access to. And if you want to learn more about the farming process, you can because Ananas Anam is extremely transparent about their supply chain. Check out their instagram #whomadeyourfiber to see a bit more, or read more on their website.
With all of this in mind, it’s easy to see why Ananas Anam also two high profile certifications. They’re a certified B-Corp, which is one of the most exhaustive certifications for any sustainable or ethical company out there, which indicates that Ananas Anam operates fairly, ethically, and sustainably in every aspect of their business Plus, Piñatex boasts a GOTS certification, which is the premier certification for organic textiles. This ensures that Piñatex textiles are made from organic fibers, without harsh chemicals, and without the improper treatment of workers.
So…what’s wrong with Piñatex?
While Piñatex derives from natural materials, it’s important to note that they aren’t biodegradable. As stated in their FAQ, “Piñatex is not 100% biodegradable. The substrate/base material of Piñatex (made from 80% pineapple leaf fibre, 20% PLA) is biodegradable under controlled industry conditions.” In other words, under current processing and manufacturing conditions, Piñatex is not biodegradable. However, Piñatex is built to last and constantly innovating, so the future of Piñatex and their products is still bright as far as materials go.
The other issue that I have with Piñatex is that there’s a general lack of information and understanding. Now this issue isn’t necessarily something that only Ananas Anam can fix. I believe that pineapple leather is partially misunderstood by consumers and writers because of our own preconceived notions.
Many conscious consumers and writers are hesitant when it comes to alternative leathers. There’s an incredible article about the problems with vegan leathers in Harper’s that I think anyone interested in alternative leathers should read (link here). What it boils down to is that as imperfect as conventional leather is, so is alternative leather. It’s not biodegradable because it uses bioplastics and isn’t made of one single organic material.
I think it’s very easy to be naive and perceive a leather made out of pineapple fibers as the pinnacle of sustainable fashion. But it’s just as easy to be cynical. This is an image issue that pineapple leather has to grapple with. And while the ongoing debates about alternative leathers are so much bigger than pineapple leather, Piñatex is certainly involved.
So aside from imperfection–the curse of any sustainable product–and light image issues, is there anything major wrong with Piñatex? For me, I don’t think so. I feel pretty confident in supporting Piñatex as an imperfect, but well-meaning and innovative brand. The only thing I hope to see more of in the future is more reporting on Piñatex’s environmental impact published by third parties. Once again, this isn’t an issue that’s Piñatex’s fault, but it would put me even more at ease when purchasing Piñatex.
Where to buy pineapple leather products
So in spite of a few problems, I believe pineapple leather is a really strong alternative for conventional leathers. If you’re convinced, why not try to incorporate it into your wardrobe. Here are a few great options to try out.
Mercer Racer Vegan Pineapple Cream
Why you’ll love it: This shoe is made with pineapple leather upper and breathable, Oeko-Tex certified OnSteam lining. The brand, Mercer, is dedicated to innovating shoes made of plant-based and vegan materials, as well as closing the loop with shoes made of recycled materials.
Bego Vegan Drey en Natural Talon Compense
Why you’ll love it: This wedge heel is made from recycled rubber and–you guessed it–pineapple leather! Bego Vegan is a brand exclusively focused on creating goods from pineapple leather and recycled leather, so there’s plenty more where this came from.
Maravilla Bags Paris Multifunctional Bags
Why you’ll love it: The outside of this bag is made completely from Piñatex, while the lining is made from cotton. Maravilla Bags focuses on creating sustainably and ethically-made handbags, with lines ranging from pineapple leather to wood and other vegetable leathers.